Propagating Monstera deliciosa from a stem cutting is reliable and straightforward, as long as you take the right section of stem. The part that matters most is the node, which is the point on the stem where a leaf, an aerial root, or a new stem can emerge. A cutting taken without a node will never root, no matter how long you leave it sitting in water.
This guide walks you through the two main propagation methods, water and soil, along with exactly what to cut and the handful of mistakes that cause most failures.
What you need before you start
The single most important requirement is a healthy parent plant with at least one clear node on a stem you can cut from. Monstera nodes look like small ridges or bumps along the stem, and they often already have an aerial root emerging from them.
You will also need a clean, sharp blade, because a scalpel or a Stanley knife makes a far cleaner cut than scissors, which tend to crush the stem tissue. Rooting hormone is optional but helpful, and you will want either a glass of water or a small pot of moist propagation mix ready to go, depending on the method you choose.
For the soil method, our Monstera and Philodendron Premium Potting Mix roots cuttings well because it holds enough moisture without becoming waterlogged. A simple 50/50 mix of perlite and compost works just as well if that is what you have to hand.
What to cut: a stem section with a node
A good Monstera cutting includes at least one node, which is the slightly swollen, ridged point on the stem. It should also carry one leaf with its full petiole, which is the stalk that connects the leaf to the stem. If an aerial root is already present at the node, keep that attached too, because it gives the cutting a head start.
Make your cut about 2 to 3 cm below the node and again 2 to 3 cm above it. You do not need a long section of stem, because a node with a leaf and a short piece of stem on either side is more than enough to root successfully.
If you are taking several cuttings from one long stem, work from the top down and treat each section between two nodes as its own usable cutting.
The most common mistake we see is trying to root a leaf on its own, with no node attached. A leaf like this will never root, and it will eventually rot instead. This happens most often when people try to propagate from a damaged or detached Monstera leaf, so it is always worth checking for a node before you begin.
Method 1: Water propagation
Water propagation is the most popular method because it lets you watch the roots form in real time. It suits Monstera very well, and roots usually appear within three to six weeks in good conditions.
- Place your cutting in a glass or jar of room-temperature water, positioned so that the node sits below the surface while the leaf stays above the waterline.
- Stand the jar somewhere with bright but indirect light. An east or north-east facing windowsill is ideal, and you should keep the jar out of direct sun, which heats the water and encourages algae.
- Change the water every five to seven days so that it stays fresh and does not build up bacteria.
- From here it is simply a matter of waiting. Roots typically appear at the node within two to five weeks, and once they reach 3 to 5 cm long, the cutting is ready to pot up.
When you move the cutting from water into soil, remember that roots grown in water are adapted to a low-oxygen environment and need time to adjust. Pot the cutting into a moist mix rather than a dry one, and keep the compost consistently damp for the first two to three weeks so the roots can settle in. A little leaf wilting during this changeover is completely normal.
Method 2: Soil propagation
Rooting a cutting directly into compost produces a stronger, better-adapted root system from the very beginning, which is why it is our preferred method. It does ask for a little more patience, since you cannot see the roots developing beneath the surface.
- Dip the cut end of the stem in rooting hormone powder or gel.
- Push the cutting into a small pot of moist propagation mix so that the node sits just below the surface or level with it. If the cutting has an aerial root, bury that as well.
- Cover the pot loosely with a clear propagation dome or a plastic bag to hold humidity around the cutting.
- Keep the pot at 20 to 25°C in bright, indirect light.
- After four to six weeks, check for roots by gently tugging the cutting. If you feel resistance, roots have formed.
If you have a heat mat, setting it to around 22°C to give the cutting some bottom heat speeds up rooting considerably and is well worth using.
How long does propagation take?
In warm conditions of 22 to 25°C, roots usually appear within three to five weeks in water and four to six weeks in soil. In cooler rooms below 18°C, you should expect the process to take six to ten weeks or even longer. This is exactly why spring and early summer are the best times to propagate, because the warmer ambient temperatures support faster rooting without any need for supplementary heat.
For more detail on how timings vary across different species, see our guide to how long propagation takes for common houseplants.
Common propagation failures
Your cutting has no node. It will not root, because a node is essential and there is no way around it. If you are unsure what to look for, our article on what a node is and why it matters explains it in full.
Your cutting is rotting in water. This is usually caused by water that has not been changed often enough, or by a cut that was not clean to begin with. Change the water every five to seven days, and always cut with a sharp, clean blade. Our guide on why cuttings rot in water covers the causes in more detail.
Roots are forming but no new leaf is appearing. This is perfectly normal, because a new leaf can take two to four months to emerge after rooting. The plant is simply putting its energy into establishing roots first, so the best thing you can do is be patient.
You took the cutting in winter. Monstera slows down significantly between October and February, so a cutting taken in this window will still root eventually, but you should expect it to take two to three times longer than one taken in summer.
Can I propagate Monstera from a leaf cutting?
No, you cannot. A Monstera leaf will not produce roots or grow into a new plant without a node, even if it still has a long petiole attached. It may sit happily in water for months without rotting, which often leads people to believe that rooting is underway when it is not. To grow a new plant, you always need a section of stem with at least one node.
What Monstera can I propagate?
The method described above works for every Monstera species, including Monstera deliciosa, Monstera adansonii, and the rarer types too. If you are looking to add new varieties, you can browse our full Monstera collection. The same principles apply to variegated Monstera cuttings, although these tend to root more slowly and with a slightly lower success rate, so it helps to keep temperatures steady and to use bottom heat wherever you can.