Green False Shamrock (Lucky Clover / Good Luck Plant)
Oxalis regnellii
Green False Shamrock (Lucky Clover / Good Luck Plant)
Oxalis regnellii
Ordering in autumn or winter? Many hardy exotics arrive dormant or cut back right now. This is normal, and the best time to plant.
Seasonal by nature: what to expect
- Grown outdoors, the way nature intended. Weather-tested and hardened in real UK conditions, so they thrive in your garden. A few marks on the older leaves are normal, the sign of a tough, real plant rather than a flaw.
- It follows the seasons. Depending on when you order, your plant may arrive cut back, dormant or leafless. That's healthy: dormancy is the ideal time to plant.
- Posted, not posed. Big leafy plants like bananas and gingers may be trimmed or gently folded to travel safely. It does the plant no harm, and it powers away again in spring.
Not sure what to expect from yours? Dormant, cut-back or weather-marked plants are all perfectly healthy and normal. Read what to expect through the seasons
The Oxalis regnellii, better known as the green false shamrock, lucky clover or good luck plant, is a charming little bulbous plant that throws up a low mound of fresh green, triangular, clover-shaped leaves topped with masses of delicate, star-shaped white flowers. This is the green-leaved, white-flowered form, quite distinct from the purple Oxalis papilionacea. It is closely tied to Oxalis triangularis, the green regnellii being widely treated as the green form of that species, so you may find the very same plant sold as Oxalis triangularis, Oxalis regnellii, green shamrock or simply false shamrock. The trefoil leaflets fold shut at night and open wide to the light each morning, so the whole plant seems to breathe with the day. It is a neat, quietly magical thing for the front of a warm border, a gritty pot or a sunny windowsill ledge outdoors in summer.
Honesty first on hardiness. This is not a fully hardy garden plant. The RHS rates the false shamrock H3, which means it is frost tender and winter dormant, so treat it as a borderline exotic rather than a plant-and-forget perennial. The green regnellii form is often cited as a touch tougher than the purple, but it is still not reliably hardy outdoors. In a mild, sheltered, sharply drained spot it can come back year after year, but in most gardens the safe route is to grow it in a pot you can move, or to lift the little bulbs before hard frost. The leaves die back completely in winter and reappear in spring, so an empty pot in January is normal, not a failure. Our what to expect guide explains how tender exotics behave through the seasons.
How and where to grow
- Position: a bright spot in sun or dappled shade, with shelter from cold winds. Ideal for pots, patios and balconies that can be tucked away in winter.
- Soil: sharp, free-draining, gritty compost or soil. Wet feet, especially in winter, are the one thing it will not forgive, so it suits dry and gravel garden conditions in summer.
- Size: compact, reaching only around 10 to 20 cm tall and wide, so it never outgrows a container.
- Hardiness: RHS H3, frost tender. Lift the bulbs or move pots under cover before hard frost, and keep them dry and frost free until spring.
Native to South America, from Brazil down into Argentina, it grows from small bulbs and rhizomes and is deciduous, resting through the colder months. Grow it in a pot you can lift and shelter, or dig up the little bulbs before the first hard frost and store them dry and frost free until spring. Water regularly through spring and summer while it is in leaf and flower, letting the surface dry between drinks, then ease right off as the foliage fades in autumn and keep the dormant bulbs nearly dry. Do watch for its party trick each evening, when the leaves fold down and close up for the night before opening again with the morning light. Its long flowering and gentle habit make it a lovely companion among our other exotic bulbs and tubers and wider hardy exotics range, and it earns its keep as a pollinator-friendly filler.
A quick note on the name. It is often traded as Oxalis regnellii and is closely allied to Oxalis triangularis, with the purple-leaved form sold separately as Oxalis papilionacea. Whichever label you find it under, this is the green-leaf, white-flower plant. Every plant we supply is nursery-grown, hand-selected and packed with care to arrive in lovely condition, ready to pot up or plant out once the frosts have passed.
Hardiness & Frost
Borderline hardy, RHS H3. Frost tender and winter dormant. The green regnellii form is often a touch tougher than the purple, but still not reliably hardy outdoors. Grow in a sunny, sharply drained spot or a pot. In colder gardens lift the bulbs before hard frost, or mulch deeply, and keep pots dry and frost free over winter. Foliage dies back completely in winter and reappears in spring.
Sun & Aspect
Bright position in sun or dappled shade. Happiest with morning sun and shelter from the hottest afternoon glare. The green, triangular leaves close at night and open again with the light.
Soil
Free draining, gritty compost or a sharply drained border. Sharp drainage matters far more than richness. Add grit to heavy ground and never let the bulbs sit wet, especially over winter.
Watering & Establishment
Water regularly through the growing season from spring to autumn, letting the surface dry between drinks. Ease right off as the leaves fade in autumn and keep almost dry through winter dormancy. Feed lightly every few weeks while in active growth.
Oxalis Care Guide
Read the full care guide →-
It can be both. Through the frost-free months this green false shamrock is happy outdoors in a sunny, sheltered spot or a gritty container, and it also makes a pretty windowsill plant. Because it is only rated RHS H3 and is frost tender, the safe approach in most UK gardens is to grow it in a pot you can bring under cover, or lift the bulbs before hard frost. It suits our pots, patios and balconies range well.
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Yes, if it is kept frost free. It is a winter-dormant bulb, so the leaves die back completely in winter and the plant rests underground, then fresh green growth returns in spring. In a mild, sharply drained spot it can be perennial in the garden, but in colder or wetter conditions keep it in a pot and protect it over winter, as explained in our what to expect guide.
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Only borderline. The RHS rates the false shamrock H3, which means it is frost tender rather than fully hardy. The green regnellii form is often cited as a little tougher than the purple, but it can survive outdoors year-round only in the mildest, best-drained gardens. For most of us it is safest treated as a tender bulb, grown in a container and kept dry and frost free in winter, or lifted before hard frost. Sharp drainage is the key to getting it through, which is why it enjoys dry and gravel garden conditions in summer.
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This is the green-leaved form, so it carries fresh green, triangular, clover-shaped leaves topped with masses of small, starry, pale white blooms through summer. That green-leaf and white-flower combination sets it apart from the purple Oxalis papilionacea. The flowers and leaves both close at night and reopen with the morning light. It is a gentle, pollinator-friendly little plant that sits happily alongside our other exotic bulbs and tubers.
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They are closely tied. Oxalis regnellii is the green-leaved, white-flowered false shamrock and is widely treated as the green form of Oxalis triangularis, so the two names are often used for the same plant. Oxalis papilionacea is the purple-leaved form, sold separately. If you are searching for green shamrock, lucky clover, regnellii or triangularis, this is the plant you want. Whichever label you find it under, ours is the green-leaf, white-flower plant.
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It is generally regarded as low risk. Like all wood sorrels the leaves contain oxalic acid, so they are best not eaten in quantity by people or pets, but no serious toxicity is reported and it is widely grown in homes and gardens. As with any plant, it is sensible to discourage cats and dogs from nibbling it. You can browse more of our hardy exotics range for pots and borders.
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Your plant will arrive in its nursery grow pot — the plastic pot it's been growing in. We don't include a decorative pot as standard, and there's a good reason for that: it means you get to choose one that fits your space and style, rather than being stuck with something that doesn't suit your home.
It also means you're not paying extra for a pot you might not want. The nursery pot is perfectly fine to keep your plant in for a while, just pop it inside a decorative cover pot or cache pot and you're good to go. When you're ready to repot (usually after a growing season or when roots start poking out the bottom), you can move it into something more permanent with fresh soil.
If you're not sure what size cover pot to go for, check the pot selector tool listed above, you'll want a decorative pot that's a centimetre or two wider than that to give it a comfortable fit. -
Every plant on our site includes the pot size (e.g. 12cm) and, where possible, an approximate height. That's the most reliable way to set your expectations, photos can sometimes make a plant look larger or smaller than it really is.
If you're thinking "that sounds quite small for the price," here's something worth knowing: younger, smaller plants almost always adapt better to your home than larger ones. They adjust faster to your light and humidity, put out new growth more quickly, and tend to establish stronger root systems long-term. A plant that grows into your space will usually outperform one that was already big when it arrived.
That said, every plant is an individual. The one you receive may vary slightly in height, shape, or fullness compared to the photo, that's the nature of living things, not a quality issue. We select healthy, well-established specimens, and if you ever feel your plant doesn't match what you were expecting, just get in touch and we'll take a look. -
There's a big difference between a plant that's been sitting under on a retail shelf and one that's been looked after and cared for by people who specialise in exactly this.
Our plants are grown in house or sourced from specialist nurseries, many of them varieties you simply won't find at your local garden centre or supermarket. Before anything leaves us, it's checked over by our horticultural team to make sure it's healthy, well-rooted, and ready to thrive in your home. We're not shifting volume off a pallet, we're choosing plants we'd want to keep ourselves.
When you buy from a supermarket, you get a plant and a generic care label. When you buy from us, you get the knowledge that comes with it, detailed care guidance, a team you can actually contact if something isn't going right, and the confidence that what's arriving has been looked after properly from the moment it was grown to the moment it reaches your door.
We're a specialist nursery first, not a retailer that happens to sell plants. That's the difference, and you'll see it the moment you open the box. -
First things first, unbox it as soon as you can. Plants don't love being in dark boxes any more than you would, and the sooner yours is out and breathing, the better.
Remove all the packaging carefully, give the soil a check with your finger, and water lightly if it feels dry. Then find it a spot with appropriate light, but avoid putting it straight into harsh direct sun or next to a radiator. Think of it like arriving somewhere new after a long journey: it needs a moment to adjust.
It's completely normal for your plant to look a little tired or droopy after transit. This is called transit stress, and most plants bounce back within a week or two. You might see a yellow leaf or some drooping, don't panic, and resist the urge to overwater or start repotting straight away.
Our advice for the first couple of weeks: leave it in its nursery pot, water it only when the top layer of soil feels dry, and let it acclimatise to your home's light, temperature, and humidity. Once it's settled in and showing signs of new growth, you can think about repotting or moving it to its permanent spot.
Every plant we sell comes with a care guide on the product page so you'll know exactly what it needs going forward. And if anything doesn't look right, get in touch with our team, we're always happy to help. -
Yes! and we go to serious lengths to make sure of it. Every plant is hand-packed by our team with protective wrapping and secure, custom-designed boxes to keep it stable and safe in transit. We've shipped hundreds of thousands of plants across the UK and our packaging methods have been refined over years to handle the bumps and jolts of delivery.
During colder months, we monitor weather forecasts and offer heat packs where needed to protect against frost. In extreme conditions, we may hold your order for a day or two rather than risk sending it out, we'd rather you wait an extra day than receive a stressed plant.
That said, plants are living things, and the occasional transit wobble can happen. If your plant arrives damaged or isn't in the condition you'd expect, just get in touch within 48 hours with a photo, and we'll make it right, whether that's a replacement or a full refund. No fuss.
The short version: we treat every box like it's going to someone who really cares about what's inside, because it is.
All plants are covered by our 7-day live arrival guarantee. We pack every order in protective, sustainable packaging designed to keep your plants safe in transit. Whether grown in our own nursery or sourced from trusted partner growers, every plant is checked before it ships. On the rare occasion something isn't right on arrival, we'll make it good, provided the plant is still in its original nursery pot.
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